• Learn About Spars
• Learn About Sails
• Learn About Blades

Spars:

When it comes to Optimist spars, the difference, besides cost, resides mainly in the quality, diameter and manufacturing of the aluminum tubing which is used in the spars. Quality is a function of the series number of the Aluminum thus, 7000 is higher in quality than 6000. As the quality goes up, so does the stiffness of the spar, so 7000 is also stiffer than 6000. Coincidentally enough, as the series number goes up, so does the cost. The diameter of the Aluminum tubing also affects both performance and cost. Larger diameter tubing is both stiffer and more expensive. All masts use the same diameter tubing, so the boom diameter is where it really counts. Most booms are either 40mm or 32mm, the 32mm being much cheaper and down right bendy. The manufacturing method also impacts cost and quality of the spar. A rolled and welded tube is much cheaper to produce than an extruded one. (extruded just means that it is formed in one continuous piece) Theoretically, an extruded spar is both stronger and stiffer. You can be fairly certain that an extruded Optimist spar is stronger but, don't count on it being noticeably stiffer.

What Should I be Looking For In Optimist Spars?

Choosing the right spars for your Optimist can be a confusing task but, here's some advise from our resident Optimist Coach. There are three major factors to consider when choosing a spar set, skill, weight and utility.

Skill is simple, it's pointless to spend $500 on racing spars for a child that can't sail to windward. On the other hand, if a sailor is a beginner and shows both promise and a commitment to improving their racing skills, then it's probably a good a idea to "cure the upgrade bug" and get a top notch racing spar early on, it will make a difference, and spars should last as long as your sailor is in the boat.

Weight is another important factor. Most Optimist sailors will achieve better performance from a stiffer spar set. Strong, stiff spars allow the sailor to trim the sail with out the spar distorting, giving the sailor ultimate control over the shape of their sail. The exception to the stiffness rules are very light sailors. (under 65 or 70 lbs.) Although a stiff mast is still very important, a bendy boom can be helpful to lighter sailors. Lighter sailors struggle to control the boat in heavy winds, a bendy boom can help depower the sail.  

Utility is simply a function of your intended use. Serious competition demands a good set of racing spars. The Optimist class has allowed varying levels of equipment so that each sailor may tailor their boat to a specific set of needs. The result is very inexpensive, long lasting spars for instructional purposes and more costly high tech racing spars for the serious racer. A learn to sail program has little use for racing spars. In fact, moving up to racing spars can be a serious detriment to instructional programs. Moving from club spars to racing spars requires accountability for all the blocks, plugs, pennants and pins that go with them. A club spar is self contained with no unattached pieces to lose.

Sails:

When you purchase Optimist sails, you're paying for 3 things, fabric, construction and name brand. Fabric is simply a matter of material cost. Fabric for racing sails is very specialized, very difficult to make and, thus very expensive. In the case of Optimist sails, the class rules make certain types of cloth advantageous because of their specialized properties, so their produced in very small runs, which also increases cost.  Fabric for club and practice sails is not as expensive and not as specialized so, they can be made more inexpensively. Construction is where the greatest cost enters. Club sails don't need to be cut and sewn perfectly and identically so, many are made in the far east, where labor is cheap. Racing sails, on the other hand, must have great care taken in each cut and each stitch, this of course, is more expensive. But it goes much deeper than that, racing sails don't just happen, they evolve. It takes any sailmaker years of sail development to reach the upper echelons of competitive sailing.  Furthermore, at the level of racing sails, the panel's aren't just stuck together and sewn.  It takes intimate knowledge of sails and years of experience to perfectly construct a sail, or simply to spot nearly invisible imperfections in the cloth.  Name brands in sails are important, they are insurance that you're getting the quality and performance you paid for. Buying a name brand means you can research who's winning at top levels and why. It means you can talk to coaches, sailors and parents, getting useful feedback on a known quantity. When you sail onto the race course, that's the kind of assurance you need to win.

What Kind of Optimist Sail Should I Buy?

First decide whether you need a Club sail, a Practice sail or a Racing sail. 

Club Sails:

A Club sail is built to stand up to the the rigors of training and the abuse of inexperienced sailors.  They are typically built out of inexpensive but tough 3.9 oz. sail cloth.  Low cost, low maintenance and longevity are the emphasis of Club sail design and construction.  They are cheapest Optimist sails and typically cost between $125 and $200.

Racing Sails:

Racing sails are built for speed, not longevity.  They're usually constructed of a lighter 2.9 oz. cloth.  Racing sail cloth is typically very high in resin, the resin stabilizes the cloth, which helps it to keep it's designed shape under load.  Furthermore, Racing sails are "weight specific", meaning that they come in different shapes that are each optimized for a specific sailor's size.  A heavy sailor gets a fuller, more powerful sail, a lighter sail will get a flatter sail and so on.  Of all the things you might spend money on, a racing sail is going to give you most speed for the dollar.  But, it's also not going to last forever.  (Click here for tips on making your Optimist race sail last longer)  Racing sails typically cost between $500 and $650.  Here's a tip: there are plenty of websites out there that will sell you an "Optimist Racing Sail" for as little as $200.  DON'T BUY THEM!!!  This sounds too good to be true because it is..  These are terrible sails, at best bad copies of race sails.  You'll end up with a very slow sail that won't last.  If your budget is $200, that's OK but, don't throw your money away on the fakes.  Buy sails from a reputable Optimist expert.  Maybe it won't be a "race sail" but, at at least you've got a new sail, that's well constructed and has good shape.  When it comes to racing sails, you get what you pay for.  If you're unsure, feel free to give us a call to talk about it. 

Practice Sails:

Practice sails, or Intermediate as they are sometimes called, are a compromise between Club and Racing sails.  They have all the "trappings" of  a race sail, vision window, tell tales, tapered battens and a weight specific cut but, none of the drawbacks.  (short life, fragile cloth)  These sails are a great way to combine longevity with good performance.  More importantly, if you've got a new sailor, the weight specific cut means that a 60 lbs. sailor will not be overpowered, and 120 lb. sailor will not be underpowered, they'll have a sail that's just right.  Having a sail that's just right is going to make learning to sail an easier more enjoyable experience.  Practice sails typically cost between $199 and $299.  

So Which One Do I Need?

If you're just starting out, a Club sail will do just fine.  However, if you have any racing ambitions at all, you should seriously consider purchasing a Practice sail. It combines the durability of a Club sail with the shape of a Racing Sail, and at only a marginally higher price, plus it's going to make learning to sail easier.  If your sailor is "ready to race", a Practice sail is just right for those starter regattas and the Green Fleet.  Racing sails are fragile and don't last more than a season or two, so they should be reserved for sailors who are ready to get serious and ready to really take care of their equipment.  If you're looking for that last bit of speed to put you on the podium, there's no better placer to spend your money than on new Racing sail, no other piece or equipment will give you more speed per dollar. 

Some people ask us, "will a more expensive racing sail make up it's cost in longer life?" The answer is a resounding "NO!"  A poorly maintained racing sail will quickly become SLOWER than a Practice sail that's been maintained in the same way.

Which Racing Sail is Right for Me?

Here's advice from our resident coach, keep in mind that this is one coach's opinion. You may want to consult your coach and other Opti parents and sailors before making a making a final decision.

At the present time, Olimpic Sails are dominating the US Optimist circuit. There is no denying the potential speed of an Olimpic Sail in the hands of a capable sailor. Supported by Colie Sails, the US importer, you will find an Olimpic sail hanging on no less than 50% of all the Optimists at any major regatta. North and Toni Tio sails have, generally, been most successful with sailors in the lower weight ranges, winning many major regattas for skippers under 90 lbs.  But that's starting to change with their newest designs.  Finding the right sail is crucial for success on the race course and each manufacturer has it's own strengths. In terms of sail construction, here's what I think is happening:

North Sails is a world leader in one design sails, a sail making monster of the 1st degree. Their reputation for fast, quality sails is a given in the sailing world. In the past, their various Optimist sails have met with varying degrees of success, ranging from good to excellent.  They now have a complete range of very competitive Optimist sails.  Their Radial may be the best all around sail of it's type.  Generally speaking

 The North VA has not met with massive success in the US. This sail is best for sailors with superior trimming and helming skills.

Toni Tio has been, and I think shall remain, the benchmark for Optimist sails. This is a loft committed to supplying Optimist sailors with the fastest possible sails. Tio sails have proven themselves with wins at several World Championships, and have performed very well in the US as well, winning many major events. The sails are built from a low stretch Contender cloth, the shape has been refined over many, many years of world level competition. Like the North VA, the Tio is very fast in the hands of a skilled helmsman.

Olimipic Sails have come to dominate the national and world stage, with more than 14 World Titles and at least 5 or 6 consecutive National Titles.  Olimpic has pioneered a new approach to building Optimist sails. Where North and Tio have continued to use low stretch cloth, Olimpic has patented a cloth that does stretch slightly. The idea is that Optimist sailors aren't always going to anticipate a puff, ease an inch, hike, and trim an inch, then repeat the cycle 50 times on the beat. An Olimpic sail, in the same puff, stretches ever so slightly along the vertical axis, opening the leach, mimicking the act of easing and trimming. The active leach results in a sail that is easier to trim, and astonishingly fast.

Blades:

There are basically three properties which define a good set of blades, straightness, fairness, and stiffness . Here's a brief description of each, and what you should expect to see in different price brackets.

Straightness is most important in the daggerboard (only because it's larger) and can be tested by sighting down each of the long edges. Because it is so technically difficult and labor intensive, only the most expensive daggerboards will be perfectly straight, most will have minor waves or a slight hook to one side, on the order of 2-5mm.  High end racing blades should be perfectly straight, with no perceptible hook.

Fairness refers to how smooth the surface of the foil is. The more expensive the blade, the more perfect you may expect the surface to be.  Less expensive blades will often have "print through", which essentially a shadow of the texture of the glass used to laminate the foam core.  This print through occurs when when the resin hardens.  Resin always shrinks, so most laminates, whether boats or blades, will have some print through.  However, the best Optimist racing blades should have very little or none.  The other component of fairness is the entry (front) and exit (back) of the blades.  On the best blades, the entry will be free of any ridge or any indentation along length and the exit will be fine are fair.  Less expensive blades intended for club use and training will tend to have a thicker exit and the build may not take as much care in the finish in an attempt to save labor and keep the cost down.  That's OK on a training set, and the thicker exit can actually improve longevity but, you don't want to see that on racing blades.

Stiffness. Generally, stiffer is better, and stiffer is more expensive. Your Optimist's foils provide the lateral resistance that keeps you from sliding sideways when reaching or sailing upwind, they produce lift just like an airplane wing.  To be most effective, you want your blades to project the maximum surface area to the water, this is why it's almost always better to sail your boat perfectly flat, and the reason you want stiff blades.  When blades bend, they project less area the water, making them less efficient.  Additionally, since the purpose of the blades is lateral resistance (so that sail power is redirected from pushing you sideways to pushing you forward) when the blades bend, whatever power that is absorbed into bending the blades is power that is lost and not transferred into forward momentum.  Lightweight sailors, under 65 or 70 lbs., often have have trouble depowering the boat in heavy winds, an ultra stiff daggerboard will exaggerate this problem. For that reason some builders have made "bendy" blades, and many coaches recommend them.  I have to admit that I was an advocate for years but, the more I've thought about it, tested it and researched it, the less I believe in it.  I'm of two minds about this, it's true that the boat will be easier to keep flat (slightly) and in the case of beginners or in training environments, you may be better off with a less stiff blade.  But for a racing sailor, I don't think the logic holds.  A bendy blade, I think, is perhaps the least efficient way to depower the boat and at any rate not very effective.  Sail and spar choice, sail set and tuning, and of course sail control are all far better alternatives.  A bendy daggerboard is really just bleeding off energy as opposed to redirecting it, which should be the goal.  So, I recommend the stiffest possible board for all racing sailors but, the expense is not really worth it for  beginners.

Why do some blades cost so much more than others, and what do I need?

All of the properties of a good blade that were discussed above require a very high degree of technical skill and labor to achieve. Also, materials that are light, strong and resilient to warping are very expensive. What you are paying for is perfection in each of those areas. Generally, the more you are willing to spend, the closer you will come to the perfect blade.  It's up to you to decide how much you want to spend achieving perfection in blades but, consider the following:

I've said it once and I'll say it again, you're better off with bad blades in great condition than great blades in bad condition. So, if you can wet sand your blades and bring them back so that they're nice and fair, and then spend the money a new racing sail, that might be smart decision.  More than that, you need to take care of your blades no matter what.  If you don't buy a blade bag to carry and protect those expensive racing blades, then don't bother buying the blades. Taking care of your equipment makes you tons faster on the water and it will save you lots and lots of money in the long run.  Blade bags, bottom covers and dollies all pay for themselves in one or two seasons. Sails will blow out, that's just their nature but, with care and the right protective equipment your blades can basically last forever.