• Learn About Spars
• Learn About Sails
• Learn About Blades

Spars:

The difference, besides cost, resides mainly in the quality, diameter and manufacturing of the aluminum tubing which is used in the spars. Quality is a function of the series number of the Aluminum thus, 7000 is higher in quality than 6000. As the quality goes up, so does the stiffness of the spar, so 7000 is also stiffer than 6000. Coincidentally enough, as the series number goes up, so does the cost. The diameter of the Aluminum tubing also affects both performance and cost. Larger diameter tubing is both stiffer and more expensive. All masts use the same diameter tubing, so the boom diameter is where it really counts. Most booms are either 40mm or 32mm, the 32mm being much cheaper and down right bendy. The manufacturing method also impacts cost and quality of the spar. A rolled and welded tube is much cheaper to produce than an extruded one. (extruded just means that it is formed in one continuous piece) Theoretically, an extruded spar is both stronger and stiffer. You can be fairly certain that an extruded Optimist spar is stronger but, don't count on it being noticeably stiffer.

What Should I be Looking For?

Choosing the right spars for your Optimist can be a confusing task but, here's some advise from our resident Optimist Coach. There are three major factors to consider when choosing a spar set, skill, weight and utility.

Skill is simple, it's pointless to spend $500 on racing spars for a child that can't sail to windward. On the other hand, if a sailor is a beginner and shows both promise and a commitment to improving their racing skills, then it's probably a good a idea to "cure the upgrade bug" and get a top notch racing spar early on, it will make a difference.

Weight is another important factor. Most Optimist sailors will achieve better performance from a stiffer spar set. Strong, stiff spars allow the sailor to trim the sail with out the spar distorting, giving the sailor ultimate control over the shape of their sail. The exception to the stiffness rules are very light sailors. (under 65 or 70 lbs.) Although a stiff mast is still very important, a bendy boom can be helpful to lighter sailors. Lighter sailors struggle to control the boat in heavy winds, a bendy boom can help depower the sail in two ways. First, the outboard end will bend in puffs, opening the leach and depowering the sail. Second, when sheeted hard, it will bend from the middle, pulling the belly from the draft of the sail and flattening it. Again, this depowers the sail.

Utility is simply a function of your intended use. Serious competition demands a good set of racing spars. The Optimist class has allowed varying levels of equipment so that each sailor may tailor their boat to a specific set of needs. The result is very inexpensive, long lasting spars for instructional purposes and more costly high tech racing spars for the serious racer. A learn to sail program has little use for racing spars. In fact, moving up to racing spars can be a serious detriment to instructional programs. Moving from club spars to racing spars requires accountability for all the blocks, plugs, pennants and pins that go with them. A club spar is self contained with no unattached pieces to lose.

Sails:

When you purchase sails, you're paying for 3 things, fabric, construction and name brand. Fabric is simply a matter of material cost. Fabric for racing sails is very specialized, very difficult to make and, thus very expensive. Fabric for club and practice sails is not as expensive so, they can be made more inexpensively. Construction is where the greatest cost enters. Club sails don't need to be cut and sewn perfectly and identically so, many are made in the far east, where labor is cheap. Racing sails, on the other hand, must have great care taken in each cut and each stitch, this of course, is more expensive. But it goes much deeper than that, racing sails don't just happen, they evolve. It takes any sailmaker years of sail development to reach the upper echelons of competitive sailing. Name brands in sails are important, they are insurance that you're getting the quality and performance you paid for. Buying a name brand means you can research who's winning at top levels and why. It means you can talk to coaches, sailors and parents, getting useful feedback on a known quantity. When you sail onto the race course, that's the kind of assurance you need to win.

What Kind of Sail Should I Buy?

First decide whether you need a Club sail, a Practice sail or a Racing sail. 

Club Sails:

A Club sail is built to stand up to the the rigors of training and the abuse of inexperienced sailors.  They are typically built out of inexpensive but tough 3.9 oz. sail cloth.  Low maintenance and longevity are the emphasis of Club sail design and construction.

Racing Sails:

Racing sails are built for speed, not longevity.  They're usually constructed of a lighter 2.9 oz. cloth.  Racing sail cloth is typically very high in resin, the resin stabilizes the cloth, which helps it to keep it's designed shape under load.  Furthermore, Racing sails are "weight specific", meaning that they come in different shapes that are each optimized for a specific sailor's size.  A heavy sailor gets a fuller, more powerful sail, a lighter sail will get a flatter sail and so on.  

Practice Sails:

Practice sails, or Intermediate as they are sometimes called, are a compromise between Club and Racing sails.  They have all the "trappings" of  a race sail, vision window, tell tales, tapered battens and a weight specific cut but, none of the drawbacks.  (short life, fragile cloth)  These sails are great way to combine longevity with good performance.  More importantly, if you've got a new sailor, the weight specific cut means that a 60 lbs. sailor will not be overpowered, and 120 lb. sailor will not be underpowered, they'll have a sail that's just right.  Having a sail that's just right is going to make learning to sail an easier more enjoyable experience.

So Which One Do I Need?

If you're just starting out, a Club sail will do just fine.  However, if you have any racing ambitions at all, you should seriously consider purchasing a Practice sail. It combines the durability of a Club sail with the shape of a Racing Sail, and at only a marginally higher price, plus it's going to make learning to sail easier.  If your sailor is "ready to race", a Practice sail is just right for those starter regattas and the Green Fleet.  Racing sails are fragile and don't last more than a season or two, so they should be reserved for sailors who are ready to get serious and ready to really take care of their equipment.  If you're looking for that last bit of speed to put you on the podium, there's no better placer to spend your money than on new Racing sail, no other piece or equipment will give you more speed per dollar. 

Some people ask us, "will a more expensive racing sail make up it's cost in longer life?" The answer is a resounding "NO!"  A poorly maintained racing sail will quickly become SLOWER than a Practice sail that's been maintained in the same way.

Which Racing Sail is Right for Me?

Here's advice from our resident coach, keep in mind that this is one coach's opinion. You may want to consult your coach and other Opti parents and sailors before making a making a final decision.

At the present time, Olimpic Sails are dominating the US Optimist circuit. There is no denying the potential speed of an Olimpic Sail in the hands of a capable sailor. Supported by Colie Sails, the US importer, you will find an Olimpic sail hanging on no less than 70% of all the Optimists at any major regatta. North and Toni Tio sails have, generally, been most successful with sailors in the lower weight ranges, winning many major regattas for skippers under 90 lbs. Finding the right sail is crucial for success on the race course and each manufacturer has it's own strengths. In terms of sail construction, here's what I think is happening:

North Sails is a world leader in one design sails, a sail making monster of the 1st degree. Their reputation for fast, quality sails is a given in the sailing world. In the past, their various Optimist sails have met with varying degrees of success, ranging from good to excellent. The North VA has not met with massive success in the US. This sail is best for sailors with superior trimming and helming skills.

Toni Tio has been, and I think shall remain, the benchmark for Optimist sails. This is a loft committed to supplying Optimist sailors with the fastest possible sails. Tio sails have proven themselves with wins at several World Championships, and have performed very well in the US as well, winning many major events. The sails are built from a low stretch Contender cloth, the shape has been refined over many, many years of world level competition. Like the North VA, the Tio is very fast in the hands of a skilled helmsman.

Olimipic Sails have come to dominate the national and world stage, with more than 14 World Titles and at least 5 or 6 consecutive National Titles.  Olimpic has pioneered a new approach to building Optimist sails. Where North and Tio have continued to use low stretch cloth, Olimpic has patented a cloth that does stretch slightly. The idea is that Optimist sailors aren't always going to anticipate a puff, ease an inch, hike, and trim an inch, then repeat the cycle 50 times on the beat. An Olimpic sail, in the same puff, stretches ever so slightly along the vertical axis, opening the leach, mimicking the act of easing and trimming. The active leach results in a sail that is easier to trim, and astonishingly fast.

Blades:

There are basically four properties which define a good set of blades, straightness, fairness, stiffness and shape. Here's a brief description of each, and what you should expect to see in different price brackets.

Straightness is most important in the daggerboard and can be tested by sighting down each of the long edges. Because it is so technically difficult and labor intensive, only the most expensive daggerboards will be perfectly straight, most will have minor waves or a slight hook to one side, on the order of 2-5mm.

Fairness refers to how smooth the surface of the foil is. The more expensive the blade, the more perfect you may expect the surface to be.

Stiffness is most important in the daggerboard. Generally, stiffer is better, and stiffer is more expensive. But beware the lightweight sailor, sailors under 65 or 75 lbs. often have have trouble depowering the boat in heavy winds, an ultra stiff daggerboard will exaggerate this problem. In such cases, you may be better off with a less expensive blade as long as you pick a fair and straight daggerboard.

Shape is really only an option in the rudder and it has a great deal to do with personal preference and sailing style. If you're not sure, it's a good idea to give us a call and talk to us about it, or have a little chat with your coach. And don't be afraid to mix and match rudders and daggerboards, it's all about finding the right combination for you.

Why do some blades cost so much more than others, and what do I need?

All of the properties of a good blade that were discussed above require a very high degree of technical skill and labor to achieve. Also, materials that are light, strong and resilient to warping are very expensive. What you are paying for is perfection in each of those areas. Generally, the more you are willing to spend, the closer you will come to the perfect blade. But here's some advice from those who know:

First, I've said it once and I'll say it again, you're better off with bad blades in great condition than great blades in bad condition. The moral of the story, if you don't buy a blade bag to carry and protect those expensive racing blades, then don't bother buying the blades. Taking care of your equipment makes you tons faster on the water and it will save you lots and lots of money. Mom and Dad might actually buy you that spiffy new boat if you take care of the hunk o' junk you're in now. Blade bags, bottom covers and dollies all pay for themselves in one or two seasons. So don't be cheap, you'll regret it later.

Second, sometimes the qualities of the blades which we pay for, are not what we want. As with spars, generally, stiffer blades are better. But this is not always the case. As a coach, I often had very light sailors raise their daggerboard about a hand's width upwind in heavy air. Doing so helped to depower the boat, keeping it sailing flat and efficiently. If you're a light sailor, you may be better off with a slightly bendier daggerboard for that very reason. The bonus is that in light and medium winds, the stiffness isn't a factor, then, in heavy winds, you get the benefits of having the entire foil in the water in the lulls. In the puffs, the board will bend slightly, depowering your boat and making you more efficient. It's a win/win situation, and it costs less. Plus, when you're a hulking Red fleeter and you have to buy stiffer blades, they will be brand new when you've got your best chance at doing some serious trophy damage.